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Equally popular are temples where huge trees have grown on and in the stonework enveloping it in roots.

The main temples are quite well restored, but many temples are in a bad shape of repair and much damage/vandalism has done over the years.

In all temples the level of detail in the stone work is exceptional.

To a certain extent the appeal is the sheer scale of the area and the 'discovering a lost temple in the jungle' feel you'll get at many smaller sites which have almost become one with the jungle and are away from the tourist trail which focuses on the larger grander temples.

Lowlights: Road travel, package type tourists and massive development at Angkor.

The hassle, especially in Phnom Penh, is awful and tuk tuk drivers wait outside your hostel to offer you hookers and meth at all hours.

The jury is out on hanging-out in Phnom Penh's traveller/expat bars and restaurants.

It is hard not to like Koh Rong (a tropical jungle island of dreams, now firmly supplanting Sihanoukville as the go to beach destination), but it is hard to see how the whole archipelago won't go the way of Thailand's main resorts.

The Roluos group, 15 km east from Siem Reap along National Highway 6.

The Outlying temples, located over 20 km for Angkor Wat.

The jury is out on Sihanoukville (Cambodia's original beach destination). Just a line of beach bars all offering pretty much the same thing.